A Catalpa Tree Flower Under the Microscope

More testing of the higher powered stereo-microscope with this flower specimen from a catalpa tree on campus.

Anthers with pollen grains (~25x).

The catalpa tree leaf and flower for reference.

Large catalpa leaf and two flowers.
Detail of longitudinally bisected flower (~7x).
Closeup of petal (~35x).
The colors on the petals come from cells having different colors (~90x).

Lavender Flowers Up Close

Lavender flowers on the stage of the reflecting, stereo microscope.

In addition to the basic stereoscopes with their fixed 10x and 30x magnifications, we also acquired a zoom stereoscope for more serious research projects. I tried it out with a sprig of lavender blossoms.

Closeup of lavender flowers. Magnification 7x.

The clips on the stage weren’t particularly useful for holding something as small as a single flower, so, to see into the flower, I had to improvise with some of the dissection gear.

Holding the lavender flower upright on the stage with a dissection probe.

At larger magnifications, the focal depth is pretty small so it’s tricky trying to get the big picture. Even thought the camera didn’t quite capture it, you can make out the pollen grains.

Looking into a lavender flower from the top. Magnification ~45x.

I tried slicing the flower longitudinally to get a better look inside, and to see how difficult it would be to identify the major parts.

Longitudinal section of a lavender flower. Magnification 14x.

The photos turned out well using a point-and-shoot Nikon camera through the eyepiece, but even these pictures did not capture all the detail visible to the eye.

Lavender flower sliced longitudinally. Two stamens are clear visible. Magnifications ~50x.

With the 2x objective attached, the microscope gets up to 90x magnification, but it becomes very hard clearly see anything after about 60x. All in all, the optics are good, and the lights bright enough to make for a very nice microscope.

Green Onion Under the Microscope

Seed head of a green onion. 10x magnification.

A new set of stereo, reflected-light, microscopes came in last week, and I’ve been testing them out. MPU has a good eye for these things, so I asked him to collect some samples for examination.

The first thing he came up with was this beautiful green onion. The seed head has some remarkable colors, and the microscopes are of good enough quality that we could examine in quite good detail at 10x magnification. We were even able to see a few small insects hanging out on the seed head that would have been invisible to the naked eye. They didn’t like the light, however, and hid before I could get a good photo.

Roots of a green onion. 10x magnification.

Return to 3rd Degree

Glass tile using the DNA Writer codon translation table.

Last weekend, I took the Glass Art Sampler class at the Third Degree Glass Factory, and got to try my hand at making a paperweight, a glass tile, and a few beads. It was awesome.

I’d had the chance to make a paperweight when my Lamplighter class had visited St. Louis a couple years ago, so I had a general idea of some of the possibilities. This time, however, I had DNA sequences on the brain, and went in with a bit of a theme in mind.

The tiles were the easiest because all you need to learn how to do was cut glass — by scoring it and using a little pliers like device to break it along the score — and then arrange the tiles of colored and clear glass on a tile. The arrangement was placed in a flat kiln, and then a day or so later, you tile would be all melted together. Pretty simple for a beginner.

My glass tile arrangement sitting in the kiln.

There is, of course, a bit more to it than that. The way the glass is stacked can be used to create floating effects; some colors will react when melted in the kiln to give different colors; care needs to be taken to manage where bubbles show up in the cooled glass; among other things.

Since it’s easiest to make straight edged cuts in glass, I made four sets of square colored tiles — yellow, red, blue, and green — to make a nucleotide sequence based off the DNA Writer translation table (with the start and stop codons added in).


Paperweight

I tried something similar when making the paperweight.

A blob of molten glass.

Usually, you start with a blob of molten, clear glass on the end of a metal rod, and dip it into trays of colored glass shards that stick to the molten glass. You can then pull and twist the viscous glass with a large pair of tweezers to blend the colors and make pretty patterns. The twisted glass is then pushed into a blob at the end of the rod, and the whole thing encased in more clear glass.

Twisting the glass.

Instead, I wanted to create a discernible pattern of colors to create a multi-colored helix of molten phenocryst-like blobs in the clear glass. I really wasn’t sure how to make it work. I though perhaps I could dip the initial glass blob into a pattern of shards and then pull it out once while twisting to get the spiral pattern. Our instructor was patient as I tried to explain my ultimate goal, and he came up with a more subtle method for making the spiral.

A pattern of colored glass chips.

I laid out the short pattern of colored glass shards and carefully dipped the initial blob of clear glass into it. All the shards stuck, which was good. Then instead of pulling with tweezers, the instructor helped my gently roll the blob of glass along a metal surface at a slight downward angle. Contact with the metal cooled the tip of the glass faster than rest of the blob causing the whole thing to twist just nicely. After smoothing things with a block we covered it with more clear glass (and smoothed again), and were done.

One week later:

Half a double helix encased in glass.

Working with big blobs of extremely hot glass is quite challenging, so I couldn’t replicate this on my own at the moment. I may have to take another class.

Glass Beads

The instructor melts a yellow glass rod in the flame and drops the molten glass onto a thin metal rod to create a bead.

I would feel comfortable making glass beads after the one class, but mastering the art is going to take a lot of practice. The flame — created from a mix of fuel gas (propane I think) and oxygen — is quite hot, and it takes some expertise to be able to melt the glass and twirl it onto the rods to make a nice round bead. The trickiest part, however, is making little colored dots to decorate the bead. You need to melt small bits of glass for the dots, then move the bead through the flame to warm it up enough so the dot will stick to the bead while not melting the bead too much. Then you pass the bead through the flame again to set the dot. If the bead or the dot is too cool when they’re put together the dots will pop off. I had a lot of popping dots.

I was not able to get my nucleotide sequence onto a bead in the time I had, but I did at least get to make a couple beads.